Goldstein Archives

I don't believe very many people know that the Goldstein Museum on the U of M campus has such an amazing fashion collection in it's archives. Or, that the archives are open to the public by appointment. I have made several trips to the museum and spent the day sketching and photographing it's garments. The college is very accommodating and if you tell them ahead of time what you want to study they will set a rack of garments aside for you. Ask for a mannequin!

Here are a few of my favorite pieces from the Goldstein Museum. I took notes on everything I looked at but must have been too caught up in the moment to write down the dates. I have given a close estimate of each.

Balenciaga (Paris)

Double breasted yellow chartreuse wool coat with jet buttons. Early 1960's. This has a full boxy silhouette without and known shaping. The yoke is interesting because it isn't seamed into the shoulder seam, but cut to go over the shoulder as one with the back yoke.

I am surprised to see that the collar wasn't constructed with a traditional under collar, but the top collar was turned and sewn under. I wonder if the wearer had the shape of the collar changed at a later date.

Christian Dior (New York- for Stuart's)

Orange brushed wool princess line coat with plastic buttons (that do not appear to be original to the garment.) Late 1950's. This has a a fuller "New Look" skirt achieved with the princess seaming. French designers of the day would sell their designs to American stores to produce and sell. I believe this design was used by the house somewhere between 1955 and 1957, but I am sure this copy is later 1958-1959. Again, I am taking a stab at this because I don't have the actual dates.

Note the pocket flaps on the jacket which are not cut and sewn separately, but are formed from the yoke. The inside is just a simple slash/welt pocket.

Christian Dior (New York)

Wool and lurex tweed jacket with matching skirt. shell in reverse gold lurex and wool with decorative cluster ball buttons. 1960's. This piece is absolutely stunning in person. I love how chunky the fabric is, especially the shell's placket. This had to be very uncomfortable to wear because it was not lined in a separate fabric and the metallic/wool blend is very scratchy. However, a willing sacrifice to make I am sure.

Charles James

Black silk satin cape with bright yellow silk satin lining. I would guess Mid-50's. This was a very popular style by James and one that he repeated in various fabrics over the year's. You need to see this on a body or form to fully appreciate the piece and see how the collar drapes.

Note the triangular seamed yoke in back.

And how it is so expertly lined on the inside of the cape.

This sleeve is my favorite part of the cape because of the diagonal seam used to produce the cocoon shape. Usually the seam would be straight across on this style of sleeve. James used this sleeve on several other styles over the years.

Here is another colorway of the coat which I think is earlier than the one above, 40's is my guess. How interesting that his designs were so unique and timeless that they could be worn a decade later. Designers of the day would often make a special client the same style in a new fabric, but you rarely see them in print.

To read more about one of the most amazing American designers of all time (in my humble opinion) I recommend the book The Genius of Charles James which is not that bad of a price given it is over 30 years old.